Medes Islands
Seven limestone islets off L'Estartit on Spain's Costa Brava, the Medes Islands show what four decades of Mediterranean protection can do. Dusky groupers grown fat and fearless, barracuda wheels, tunnels and caverns lit like chapels, and walls draped in red gorgonians — all within minutes of the harbor. Diving is quota-controlled inside the Montgri, Medes Islands and Baix Ter Natural Park, so book ahead in summer.
Why dive here
Fishing stopped around the Medes in 1983, and the difference between these islets and the coast a kilometer away remains one of Europe's clearest conservation lessons. Groupers that would be spearfishing trophies anywhere else hold station in the open; corvina drift in bronze schools through the shadows; barracuda tornado over the pinnacles in late summer. The limestone itself is half the appeal — the islands are drilled with tunnels and swim-throughs like the Dofi complex and La Vaca, where divers pass through darkness toward blue doorways. Coralligenous walls carry red gorgonians below 15–20 m, and October seas can be startlingly clear once the summer thermocline breaks down. It is compact, regulated, family-friendly diving: short boat rides, sites for every level, and a park system that takes its dive quotas seriously. Divers who want wilderness should look elsewhere; divers who want dense, protected Mediterranean life at its most photogenic will struggle to do better.
Month by month
Centers operate roughly March–November, with July–September the warm peak and June and October quieter with excellent conditions. Summer brings a sharp thermocline — warm on top, markedly cooler below 15–20 m.
| Month | Water | Visibility | What it's like |
|---|---|---|---|
| January●●○○○ | 12–14 °C / 54–57 °F | 15–30 m | Cold, clear, quiet; limited boat schedules. |
| February●●○○○ | 12–13 °C / 54–55 °F | 15–30 m | |
| March●●○○○ | 13–14 °C / 55–57 °F | 12–25 m | |
| April●●●○○ | 14–16 °C / 57–61 °F | 12–25 m | |
| May●●●●○ | 16–18 °C / 61–64 °F | 12–25 m | |
| June●●●●● | 18–21 °C / 64–70 °F | 12–25 m | |
| July●●●●● | 21–24 °C / 70–75 °F | 10–25 m | Peak season; thermocline sits around 15–20 m. |
| August●●●●● | 23–26 °C / 73–79 °F | 10–25 m | Warmest water and fullest boats. |
| September●●●●● | 21–24 °C / 70–75 °F | 12–30 m | Barracuda schools at their densest. |
| October●●●●○ | 18–21 °C / 64–70 °F | 15–30 m | Autumn clarity as the water column mixes. |
| November●●●○○ | 15–18 °C / 59–64 °F | 15–30 m | |
| December●●○○○ | 13–15 °C / 55–59 °F | 15–30 m |
Monthly figures confidence: Editorial estimate. Months without a row have no verified data — we would rather show a gap than invent one.
The dive sites (4)
| Site | Type | Depth | Level | Access | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Carall Bernat Barracuda wheels, red gorgonian forests below 15 m, big-fish energy | Pinnacle | 5–40 m | Advanced | Boat | |
| El Dofi Tunnel arches with blue-light exits, groupers and corvina in the chambers… | Cave | 6–30 m | Intermediate | Boat | |
| Els Tascons Grouper encounters at close range, varied easy topography, macro-rich walls | Reef | 5–35 m | Beginner | Boat | |
| La Vaca The through-tunnel itself, escort groupers, coralligenous walls either side | Cave | 8–28 m | Intermediate | Boat |
Getting there & staying
Getting there: Fly to Barcelona or Girona and drive or transfer to L'Estartit, the small resort town facing the islands. Dive boats leave from the marina and reach every site in 5–15 minutes.
Where to stay: L'Estartit itself is the practical base, with dive centers, apartments and family hotels; the Empordan hinterland offers vineyard and medieval-village stays within easy reach.
Costs: Editorial estimate including park diving fees; L'Estartit pricing is generally moderate by European standards.
Between dives: The Montgri massif and its castle, Empuries' Greco-Roman ruins, Dali's Figueres and Cadaques, kayaking the Costa Brava coves, and Catalan food in every direction.
Safety & practicalities
Hazards: Tramuntana wind can blow out the sea for days; summer boat traffic is heavy around the islets; deeper walls invite depth creep below the thermocline.
Dive within the park's rules and your center's briefing. A 5 mm suit works in high summer; 7 mm or semi-dry is wiser for the cool water below the thermocline and in shoulder months.
Nearest recompression: Hyperbaric provision for the Costa Brava has historically centered on the Palamos area; availability changes, so confirm with your operator. Emergencies go through 112 and DAN Europe.